I am a food-driven traveler. For me, tasting and learning about local cuisines is one of the most authentically regional experiences you can have when visiting a new place. Oaxaca is one of the culinary capitals of Mexico and there is a varied collection of restaurants, showcasing both traditional and contemporary interpretations of dishes in oaxaca’s culinary tradition such as mole.

My favourite meal was at Lavadera de Olla, a restaurant with a contemporary take on classic Oaxacan cuisine. We had an extraordinary salad with over ten varieties of tomato, a prawn mole with a hint of guava, and a pumpkin cheesecake with candied pistachios for dessert. Criollo was the site of my friend’s birthday party, and we had a marvellous afternoon sampling different types of tacos in the charming patio.

Another very special experience was at Alfonsina, just outside the city. The tables are set in a contemporary garden in the chef’s own home. A mother/son cooking duo, they present contemporary dishes inspired by the ingredients and traditions of Oaxaca. Our menu was based on local vegetables and fish, with a standout dish of sea bass in an ochre-coloured almond mole and dessert of cactus flower and mamey. One pro-tip I wish I’d known is that Alfonsina is very close to the airport. On my next trip, I will head directly there after landing to set the tone for my gastronomic visit to Oaxaca.